Would’ve, Should’ve, Could’ve

When making a guitar, what wood should you use? No matter what you choose, someone will always  tell you that you should’ve used something else. If you decide to read up on the topic on the internet, everyone has an opinion. But I wouldn’t trust too many of them. The only people who can really know  how a guitar will resonate depending on the wood are the people who are playing a lot of guitars day in and day out. This means luthiers, repairman, set-up technicians at guitar factories.

2013 Los Straitjackets Galaxie 4 with a Mahogany body

 

I make and design guitars and I need to take a lot of things into account. The type of wood is important but other things can trump this. Many people will tell you that “mahogany is the best” or “you have to use “ash” and these are safe answers to this very complex question. Yet, the  tone of a guitar can be altered very dramatically by other factors.

When I first started to produce factory-made guitars in Korea, I insisted on using poplar. I owned an old 60′s Mustang that I thought sounded amazing. The guitar had its original finish stripped and I could clearly see the greenish tinge that told me it was poplar (as well as the smell when sanding it). Since I knew that Fender usually used ash or alder and Gibson used mahogany, I went for the poplar thinking this would give my brand its own sonic fingerprint.

This was working fine until the guitars started getting very heavy. I asked the factory to use lighter pieces of poplar but they were still showing up heavier than normal. I decided  to try other types of wood in the hopes of getting the weight down. I specified mahogany, ash, alder and basswood as well as poplar. The guitars became much lighter. Since 95% of my guitars have solid color finishes it was not always obvious what types wood were being used until I needed to do some routing for a custom job. I started noticing lots of mahogany and basswood bodies.

But to my surprise I did not notice a shift in tonality. The guitars were still sounding great and we were still getting the same great reviews. Also, at the time I was supplying the band Los Straitjackets with new guitars and they sounded just as good as ever through their old Fender Vibrolux amps.

Now, I’m not saying there is NO difference in the tonal qualities of different woods. There will always be subtle differences in different types of wood. But I also notice differences in tone when trying out two identical guitar made from the same wood, that came off the same assembly line.

I can tell you that I am not a fan of maple, it is very hard and bright, though it can be warmed up with the right pickup. And pine (from the hardware store) is a little too soft and kind of dead sounding. Any wood that is aged will always sound better. I rarely find and old solid body guitar from the sixties that I can’t get a cool sound out of, no matter who made it.

But that brings me to my last point. Along with the right pickup and decent hardware, the setup is key to the sound. If the strings are not set to the perfect height a guitar can feel and sound completely dead and off. I am fanatical about my set-ups. I do 90% of all the set-ups on our DiPinto guitars and the ones I don’t do I check over from head to toe. For this reason, you can find a guitar made by another company but made in the same factory as a DiPinto, and get far inferior sound quality and playability.

So if you are trying to figure out what wood to use on the guitars you plan to make, all I can tell you is that you should use the lightest and/or oldest available mahogany, alder, bass wood, poplar or ash that can be found. And if you ever decide to buy a DiPinto, you can be assured that the tone of your guitars will be killer because of any one of the light weight resonant woods we use, but also because of a great set-up, a well thought out design and great pickups!

Modified Arion Analog Delay! Freak out- Space Noises! $140

This was a standard Arion analog delay pedal that could only do quick slap-back effects. Nothing very exciting. We extended the range of every parameter on it. The thing is AMAZING now! Very few analog delays in this price range can do this sort of regeneration. We also upgraded the switch.

Watch the video:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v26rv1BSmpE&feature=youtu.be

 

The guitar is one of our DiPinto Galaxies. The amp is a ’66 Fender Princeton Reverb. I turn the reverb on halfway through…

Mountainking – Invasion! Dual Oscilating Theremin Synth! $225

Handmade by my good friend Alan from Mountainking Electronics. This is a dual oscillating, light controlled theremin.  The two oscillators on this are controlled separately by LDR’s that modualte together to create ring modulation and tremelo affects. runs on 9v battery or 9v adaptor.  

Watch the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Ga9QHusP8&feature=youtu.be

The delay is an Arion analog delay that was modified to increase the delay time, depth and repeat. This is available as well for $140.

BUY: info@dipintoguitars

Phone: 215-427-7805

Frankenstrat’s Monster

Old Fender strats are all too often the victim of bad “customization”. Don’t get me wrong, I love Eddies Frankenstrat but he was a genius and the rest of us just aren’t (at least when it comes to altering old strats).

Here is an old 3-bolt that has numerous routes including humbucker routes, battery compartments and a hole that housed 3 mini toggles.  The pickguard hid the former holes but the latter hole cut right into the top horn.

Strat route

 

 

 

 

 

The three holes filled easily with wood dowels. Then I had to devise a good way to cover the back hole. The finish was already stripped so I decided to do a solid color finish. The solid color would also help hide the repair work.

Now most people would just through a bunch of filler in there and sand it flat, and that would look pretty good…for about a month. After that the filler and the wood would start to move and the outline of the route would become clear. The only way to do it right as to make a new wood cap for the hole.

Cut down the backMy first step was to route a 1/2″ off the back of the horn with a nice straight edge. I then cut a piece of ash and cut it to fit over the horn, but just a little big. I glued it with wood glue so it was tight.

 

 

Glue in new piece of woodAfter it was glued on, I shaped the new piece with rasps and wood files. With the proper care and time I got a real nice fit.

 

Shape to finish

Next I plan to do it up in the same type of finish used in the seventies. I can’t decide on a color though…I’m thinking Uli John Roth yellow. What do ya think?

1968 Fender Rosewood Telecaster

Wow! This is one rare piece! All original. Sandwiched, chambered body. Very light weight and resonant. Amazing tone and perfect action. Pickguard shank over the years and has some cracks. Other than that, guitar is mind blowing! Like the ones used by George Harrison, Eric Clapton, etc…Very rare! $25,000. Original hard case. Buy: call 215-427-7805 or info at dipintoguitars.com